Turkey 2012

Visiting Turkey; Istanbul and Ephesus in 2012

Turkey 2012 Turkey 2012

Vietnam & Bangkok 2009

Vietnam & Bangkok- 17 days July 2009

Vietnam & Bangkok 2009 Vietnam & Bangkok 2009

Morocco 2012

Morocco; Marrakech, Fez, Volubilis, Meknes and Casablanca in October of 2012

Morocco 2012 Morocco 2012

Japan 2011

Sushi, Shrines and Shinkansen; 8 Days in Tokyo and Kyoto in April 2011

Japan 2011 Japan 2011

Rome 2009

Mozzarella, Museums & Macchiato; A Week in Rome, October 2009

Rome 2009 Rome 2009

Restaurants in Matera and Bernalda

June 1, 2014
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We arrived in Matera hungry, and as soon as we checked in to il Sextantio, set off on foot, up and up to the piazza del Duomo and then down via del Duomo to the cute little Piazza del Sedile where we sank gratefully into chairs outside on the piazza. I wish I could remember the name of the place, but all I can tell you is that there is a large sign over the arch which says “Trattoria” and “Pizzaria” (thanks to Google Maps street view). My mother ordered the mixed antipasti plate and I had a baked ziti with eggplant (as seen in the post’s top photo).

That night we had a lovely meal at Ristorante il Cantuccio at Via del Beccherie 33 (this is this street that via del Duomo turns into as you walk into the new part of Matera. The restaurant has a small dining room and reasonable prices ( 5 euro for the antipasti, 8 euro for the primi and 13-15 euro for the secondi). The food was uniformly well prepared and delicious and we shared each of the dishes.

We started with some vegetables; zucchini with apple cider vinegar and fennel seeds. It was a simple preparation, but so good I had to make it when I returned home.

The next dish was a classic pasta for this region and this version did not disappoint; orecchetti with rapini (or turnip greens), fried garlic, anchovies, and croutons (or typically, bread crumbs) with some peppery local extra virgin olive oil. You may think, bread crumbs and pasta? but it works, trust me.

We also shared some skinny veal sausages cooked in white wine and tomatoes.  With wine (2 glasses) and water, the meal was 40 euro.


On one of our days in Matera, we …

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Matera; Ancient Rock Churches, Modern Art and More

May 26, 2014
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On our last day in matera we had the opportunity to walk around and explore the winding streets of the town, visit the wonderful modern art museum set inside a series of caves and check out the Rupustrian rock churches which lay across the valley from our terrace.

I love modern art and the MUSMA di Matera is in one of the most stunning settings I’ve ever had the opportunity in which to view art. Set into arched caves which do down deep into the hillside the juxtaposition of the modern art pieces combined with the rough stone walls and peeling frescos from hundreds of years ago make for a one of a kind experience.

Our walk over to the museum took us through several winding pedestrian only streets and down onto the south east side of town from which we had lovely views of the valley and part of the sassi near San Peitro Caveoso.

Once inside the museum, you’ll be asked not to take photos of any specific pieces of art, but general photos of the rooms are acceptable. On the top level, there are several rooms containing original frescos.

Walking back up into the main part of town looked like this:

A drive across the valley took us to the caves we’d been viewing for days from our terrace. Some of those caves have been faced with stone and turned into chapels and churches. Some looked like they’d been lived in, not only in paleolithic times, but more recently (most likely by sheep or goat herders).

None of the churches were open, but it was possible to peer inside to see the frescos.

As we looked back across the valley, we could see our hotel and our terrace at il Sextantio.

When we returned back to …

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A Walking Tour Through the Sassi in Matera Italy

May 18, 2014
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If you’ve heard of Matera, then you’ve most likely heard of the Sassi. Matera sits on the border of Basilicata and Puglia in what would the arch of Italy’s “boot”. The word sassi translates to stones, but in this case refers to the two neighborhoods, the Sassi Caveoso and Sassi Barisano, which are comprised of caves dug into the ancient limestone cliffs in Matera. These caves have been shelter to humans since the Paleolithic age.

This region has long been one of Italy’s poorest and up until the 1950’s people lived in the caves, which had no running water or electricity, along with their children and livestock. Embarrassed by the deplorable conditions in which the sassi’s inhabitants lived, the Italian government enforced the relocation of 30,000 people to the newer part of town in the early 1950’s. In the late 1980’s they reopened the area for development (in hopes of encouraging tourism to the region) and people began to move back in, building restaurants, bed and breakfasts, and renovating homes.

In looking at the town from a distance, it’s hard to imagine the buildings you see are all mostly caves inside because on the outside they are faced with stone and have windows and doors. But inside there are rooms carved deep into the limestone cliffs.

On our first day in Matera we took a walking tour with lifetime resident Nadia Garlatti. Nadia met us in the new town’s Piazza Vittorio Veneto and from there we walked down into the first of the two sassi neighborhoods. But first, we got a private tour of the cistern which gave the town it’s first UNESCO World Heritage status. This is the second largest man made cistern next to the one in Istanbul. The Matera cistern was closed at …

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Il Sextantio Hotel- Sleeping in a Cave in Matera Italy

March 30, 2014
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We are in a cave. Yes, a cave, but we are not spelunking. This is no ordinary cave (are there such things anyway?) for it was also once a monastery, so there are pointed arches separating the rooms. It’s neither cold nor humid inside, though it can be a little dark. Electric lighting is subtle, and for the most part, hidden and angled for dramatic effect rather than to allow one to put on her mascara.

Flickering candles everywhere add to the ambiance, as do the pieces of roughly carved wood furniture, homespun linens, and high iron bed stands. But then there are modern bath fixtures and wifi (though no tv nor telephone) lest you forget in what century you are sleeping.

When I was first researching for this trip I came across Il Sextantio in Matera and was immediately enthralled by its style and the allure of sleeping in a cave, albeit a luxurious one. The hotel sits in the restored sassi of Matera. The literal translation of sassi is stones, but really refers to the caves carved out of the stones in the ancient town which had been home to the people of the area for hundreds of years all the way up until the 1950s when the government forcefully relocated most of the population to the “new” town section of Matera. In the 1990’s the area was reopened to development and private citizens. It’s now filled with hotels, hostels, and restaurants yet many empty structures remain.

Several months later I came across an auction on www.luxurylink.com for three nights at this property and the price made it too tempting to pass up. When we arrived, there was one more surprise. Because the hotel was almost full on our first night there with a tour group from National …

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Otranto and the Salentine Coast

February 6, 2014
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On our last day in Lecce we decamped our car from its parking space, drove around in circles a bit and headed out of town going east, in a straight line on highway 364 to San Cataldo on the coast. I’m not sure what we expected, but there wasn’t much “there” there. In October everything was shuttered, but I’m sure in August it’s hopping. So we turned the car south and followed the coastal road with the goal of stopping in Otranto and making it to the “end of the earth” (or at least the very tip of the heel of the boot) in Santa Maria di Leuca.

Our first stop was in a tiny town about mid way between San Cataldo and Otranto. I can’t remember the name (it might have been Torre dell’Orso) but it had a nice hotel (with a fantastic bathroom) high on a cliff overlooking the sea. This was the first of many “torre” ruins we’d see along the coast.


Salentine Coast

The next stop was the town of Otranto which boasts a small castle and cathedral. The old part of town is charming and the port is incredibly picturesque. Once again, not knowing where to park in the town, we ended up down at the marina where we found free parking. There’s a tourist information spot there (free map!), public restrooms, and behind the restaurant at the end of the building on the right, are access stairs up into the old part of town. It could not have been easier.


Above, part of the castle fortifications as seen from down at the marina. Below, the castle from the old part of town.



Inside the castle, above, and below, frescos from one of the castle rooms.



View of the marina from the castle ramparts, above.

Otranto Cathedral

Otranto’s Cathedral …

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Restaurants in Lecce-Il Vico Del Gusto, Trattoria Nonna Tetti, Trattoria Le Zie

January 9, 2014
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Lecce was no exception in terms of the high quality of the food we had all over Puglia. When researching for the trip, several restaurant’s names came up over and over again and I dutifully added them to my list. Yet in the end, the one we liked the best was one we chose at random, totally under the radar, and we enjoyed it so much, we ate there twice in three days.

Trattoria Nonna Tetti

Our first meal in Lecce was lunch at Trattoria Nonna Tetti, shortly after we arrived. The restaurant was about a 10 minute walk from our hotel. We ordered the antipasti to share and it was quite generous with five different plates hitting the table. There was a plate of typical Puglian roasted eggplant with tomato, a shredded carrot and red cabbage salad which seemed a bit out of place, sauteed mushrooms, roasted peppers over fava puree which were over salted, and a sausage stew served in an earthenware crock.




For our main course we shared a plate of fried octopus which was served over fava puree and topped with fresh arugula and grated pecorino. This was delicious and the octopus was perfectly cooked. It was here we had our first bottle of the delicious Salice Salentino wine (half bottle, 7 euro). Lunch, with water and wine was 33 euro total.

Dinner that night was a disappointing  meal (every trip has to have at least one, right?) at Il Latini. My pizza was decent (plain, with burrata) but my mother ordered a “soup” with mussels and garbanzo beans and asked if she could have it without the mussels. What she got was something that which turned out to be a mound of garbanzo beans (like 3 cans), dumped into a bowl.

Trattoria Le

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Palazzo Gorgoni in Lecce, Italy

December 7, 2013
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There are tons of hotels and B&Bs in Lecce and searching through them was more of a challenge than I expected. Then we found Palazzo Gorgoni, recommended to us by Silvestro Silvestori who owns The Awaiting Table, a cooking school based in Lecce.  My mother had “met” Silvestro on Twitter and he’d recommended the B&B which is about 100 feet from his school on the same street. While we did not take any classes there, we did take a short tour of the school and meet Silvestro in person. The place looks like a lot of fun.

In the end, we chose Palazzo Gorgoni because of its location right in the center and because the rooms looked nice. In addition, the price was right. At the time, we got a single rate for two of the rooms at 60 euro each a night. We could have shared a room for 80 euro a night, and they are fairly spacious, but it’s nice to have some space during the trip, so we splurged on two separate rooms. We found the location to be perfect for walking anywhere in the center of Lecce.

Piazza near Palazzo Gorgoni Lecce

 Above, the piazza where we parked our car (white one, bottom right corner). Below, the street leading back to the piazza from the B&B.

Street next to Palazzo Gorgoni LeccePalazzo Gorgoni  is essentially a three room B&B without the “B” for “breakfast”. One of the rooms is extra large, basically two rooms together with multiple beds, so would be good for a family share. The walls of all the rooms are built from the original beautiful golden pietra leccese (stone from the area around Lecce).

Connecting the two of the rooms is a wide hallway which has a coffee and tea maker, water dispenser, and several books. Marta, Palazzo Gorgoni’s owner, often puts out …

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Lecce, Puglia’s Baroque City

December 1, 2013
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It’s about an hour’s drive from the Valle d’Itria to Lecce on the main highway. Finding our way to our B&B, the Palazzo Gorgoni, right in the historical center took almost half an hour, even though on the map it looked so simple. The challenge in Lecce, like most towns first constructed before the time of cars, is that the streets are narrow, winding, and in many places, one way. Once we finally found a place to park (thankfully only about 100 feet from the B&B) and checked in, we headed out in search of lunch (more on this later) and a walk about town.

Over the next several days, we walked everywhere we could in town, exploring the piazza with it’s Roman amphitheater, the modern art museum, and admiring half a dozen Baroque churches and all the beautiful architecture around town. Lecce is incredibly photogenic. It’s not hard with all the Baroque detail on the churches and building, the quaint streets, and even the food!

Lecce Doors

One of the places we really enjoyed visiting was is a place for which I have no photos however, because the light inside was so poor. It’s the tiny Museo Archeologico Faggiano which is inside a three story building in the historical center. In what was once a private residence, they discovered the remains of a 16th century convent and other ruins dating back over 2000 years. There are frescos, old tiles on the walls, water storage tanks, tombs, a granary, and underground walkways. http://www.museofaggiano.it/en/

I’d read that everything shuts up tight in Lecce during mid-day and this is most certainly true. Done expect to visit shops, churches or museums between 2 and 5pm. This can certainly put a cramp in your sightseeing so plan accordingly. Our first stop was the famous Santa Croce …

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