Battambang

On the Rails in Battambang, Monks Trump All

January 26, 2011
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October 10, 2010
Battambang Cambodia

In the light of day, the room at La Villa  is quite nice, sizable to the point of being cavernous. We have a balcony with a view of the river and a bathroom with a huge cast concrete tub. I wish we had more time here to enjoy the hotel (the pool looks lovely too) but we have to get moving to try and do some things we’d planned on doing yesterday before getting stuck on the boat.

Our room rate included breakfast, which we took in the garden. Then it was time to pack it up and wait for Mr. Kim. We left our bags in a corner of the lobby and waited for the tuk tuks with Nora and Mark to arrive. Once they did, we were on our way out of town to where the Norry trains run, about a 20 minute ride. Along the way, we pass the big statue representing the city of  Battambang, the guard Dambong, holding the magic staff (the Bat Dambong) from which the city gets its name.

Next up was a ride on the Bamboo Train (aka the “Norry” train). I hope my explanation below will do it justice, but please watch the video I put together for more details and to get a feel for what it’s like to ride the rails so close to the ground.

 

Cambodia used to have a train system which ran throughout the country. When the Khmer Rouge came to power the entire country’s infrastructure fell apart and the trains pretty much stopped running. There are supposedly trains which run infrequently now, but I’ve never seen them or met anyone who has ridden on them. Once the fighting stopped, the locals did whatever they could to move people and goods from village to village and

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The Neverending Boat Trip to Battambang

December 6, 2010
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Do you ever have one of those days where you think, “This is the worst day ever. It can’t possibly get any worse. This sucks.”
But later, in reflection of the events of the day, it just doesn’t seem that bad. As it turns out,  you see it as an adventure and you’ve forgotten all about the horrors, just like women supposedly forget the pain of childbirth (otherwise why the hell would anyone ever do that again?).

We had one of those days while we were in Cambodia.

It started out innocently enough, just a “quick 5 hour boat trip from Siem Reap to Battambang on a private boat.” That sounds nice and relaxing, doesn’t it?
I’d heard horror stories about the Boat to Battambang before but those were all in the dry season when the water was low. Here we were at the end of the rainy season and the water was still plenty high.

The short version is that our five hour tour turned into a 12 hour ordeal which included the captain getting us lost and the boat breaking down. Twice. Oh and did I mention there was no toilet on this luxury cruise?

Before someone gets their panties in a bunch about my whining here, let me refer you back to the top paragraph. It’s all good now, and even in the moment I was contemplating peeing in the Happy Cooler out of desperation, it really was a fascinating experience and dare I say it, fun.

Come along now on our 12 hour journey…

October 9, 2010
Siem Reap Cambodia

6:30 AM-We are all up early and ready to head to Chong Kneas fishing village where we are to meet our boat. There are seven of us along for the trip; my mother, Lori, Nora and Mark (recent collage grads who …

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