Siem Reap

A visit to Tchey School and a Trip to Siem Reap’s Central Market

February 16, 2011
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October 11, 2010
Siem Reap, Cambodia

Today was a day of running errands for the foundation, but it was fun and interesting. The first order of the day was a visit to Tchey School to deliver some school books and take a look at the school.  This school is the model of what all the schools have the potential to be, yet at the same time there is a cautionary tale to be told.

Tchey school has been the recipient of a lot of attention and donations, from the PLF and from numerous organizations. While it has benefited from the donations with the building of new classrooms, library, kitchen and other structures, it has also suffered from the short-attention-span syndrome of many organizations. What you don’t hear a lot about in the world of charities is that many come in, build something, and then leave with no plan in place with how to deal with the expense of running it after their departure. This can be seen in the numerous buildings which currently sit empty, not being used for their original intent. One of the reasons I admire what the foundation does is that they are in it for the long haul and have a long term vision for each school. It’s not about a quick fix for Ponheary or Lori or the foundation.

Check out the slideshow above of photos from the school.
This is a new format, let me know what you think!

We walked around the school, and the kids were playing outside and sitting at their desks while all the teachers had a planning meeting about the beginning of the year. Imagine that happening in a public school in the US. We saw a special classroom built by the Japanese to educate high acheiving local kids in the Japanese language and …

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Feeding My Ancestors; Cambodia’s Pchum Ben Festival

November 17, 2010
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October 8, 2010 

Pchum Ben Festival 

This morning we got up at 3am to go out to a pagoda in a rural area about an hour outside Siem Reap to feed our ancestors. Yes, you read that right. 

Today is one of the most important days during the Pchum Ben holiday in which people gather at their pagoda to honor their ancestors with food and worship. This is very similar to All Soul’s Day and The Day of the Dead in other cultures. My mother, Lori, and I were taken by one of the foundation’s regular van drivers, Den, to his home where the family had been hard at work making packets of food wrapped in banana leaf bundles to bring to the pagoda and they had very nicely made extra for us. 

After stopping at the house to pick up the food and the rest of the family, we drove about a half mile to the village’s pagoda and temple. Once there, we went inside the pagoda which was  filled mostly with Buddhist nuns all dressed in white, many of whom had walked for miles to get there. They all came prepared for the duration of the holiday, bringing bedding and some food with them.  

We were the only foreigners there, but everyone was extremely welcoming and it didn’t feel awkward at all. Member’s of Den’s familytook us around to give offerings of  500 riel notes (about 12 cents) to the nuns (most of whom are older widows) and monks who were there, who each gave us a blessing. This money is supposed to help them defray the cost of their long journey and is also a way to pay respect to the dead through them. There were other people doing this with money and gifts of food as well. 


Soon there was movement in the crowd. Den’s brother, Denny, took …

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A One Day Visit to Temples of Angkor and Abacus Restaurant

November 8, 2010
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October 7, 2010

Even though I visited the temples on my last two trips to Cambodia, I knew I could not come all the way to Siem Reap without  seeing them again. This time my goal was an abbreviated tour with an emphasis on photography instead of the history which I’d already heard twice. Fortunately, Lori’s friend Lynn had booked Dara Ly (Ponheary’s brother and licensed tour guide) for a day to see three of the most well known temples, Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm and invited me to come along. Dara is quite an avid amateur photographer and now well known for guiding his clients to the perfect spots for photos.  If you’re interested in planning a trip to see the temples, check out my post on “Tips for Visiting the Temples of Angkor.”

Angkor Wat:

We began our day around 8:30 am with Dara and the driver waiting for us in front of the guesthouse. Our first destination was Angkor Wat and we arrived at the rear entrance. Most tours enter Angkor Wat through the front, walking across the causeway. While I think this is preferable for a dramatic entrance (especially for first time visitors), the sun rises behind the temple, effectively back lighting it and making a front-on photo almost impossible in the early morning. So, Dara knowing we wanted to take pictures, had us going in through the back which also helped us avoid the early crowds.

We made our way through the temple, climbing farther and farther up and into the center of the complex. The uppermost center tower is now open to 100 people at a time, strictly controlled by a pass handed out at the bottom. This was closed last time for restoration but I’d seen it in 2002 and I was happy to see it open again, especially with …

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Eating Like a Local in Cambodia; Noodles & Morning Glory & Insects, Oh My!

October 26, 2010
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Oct 6th, 2010

This morning we’re headed back to Knar School for a return visit. This school has unique medical issues and we’re going out with a small group of volunteers to check on some of the children and visit two very special boys at home.

Num Bahn Choc

First, we make a stop at edge of a small town on the way to Knar where there is a row of identical restaurants, all serving the same dish, Num Bahn Choc (aka Cambodian Morning Soup). This is a noodle dish which is as local as it gets; every area has its own version and the ingredients change with the season. Lori has her favorite stall, one in which she’s confident of the quality and cleanliness of the ingredients. Num Bahn Choc is a soupy rice noodle dish served with a curry, fermented fish paste (there’s no additional meat added) and some fish broth. The big draw are the herbs, vegetables and assorted leaves and greens which are collected fresh from the forest each morning.

The dish comes to the tables as a simple bowl of rice noodles with the fish broth. It’s up to you to add your favorite garnishes from the big bouquet on the table and the assorted condiments (chili sauce, pickled garlic, dried chili powder, etc). I added yellow flowers which looked like sweet pea blossoms, an herb which looked a little like cilantro or parsley, some long beans and some chili sauce (see my bowl in the top photo). I also tasted those red leaves, but they didn’t seem to have a ton of flavor to me. The cost was $1 per person including a glass of sweet milk iced coffee.

It’s hard to explain exactly where this place is located, but while trying to figure it out, I came across a link to one of my

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Cambodia; Knar First Day of School 2010 and Khmer Kitchen Restaurant

October 17, 2010
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October 4, 2010
Knar School, Siem Reap Provence

Today is the first day of school for Knar Primary school which is about an hour outside Siem Reap. This is the day the Foundation gives out uniforms and school supplies along with providing a hot lunch for all, prizes for last year’s first in class, and bicycles for those who graduated the 6th grade as well as top in class for 4th and 5th grade.

Two vans left the guesthouse at 6 am filled with supplies and food for 400 people. The cooks started prepping early for the kid’s favorite lunch, fried noodles with vegetables and chicken. We arrived about an hour later to a school yard filled with smiling children, setting up their desks outside for the day’s assembly. There were balloons and a music truck to provide entertainment as well as an audio system for the presentations. In the area behind one of the classrooms is an outdoor kitchen where lunch preparation was in full swing, along with the older students helping with the prep work.


We visited this school in 2007 and while it pretty much looks the same as it did then, there are some changes. The kitchen area has been improved, there’s a new fish “farm” next to the garden and a chicken coop. However, the older classroom building looks more dilapidated now, with entire sections of walls missing. Some of the kids here have ongoing medical issues due to recurring infections and we will return later in the week to address some of those issues.

The presentation of awards for the best students is always a highlight in any school and this one was no exception. A small crowd of proud parents were on hand to see their children receive awards; some were packages of books, …

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Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and the Seven Candles Guesthouse

October 14, 2010
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Above, on the road from Phnom Penh.
 

Arrival into Phnom Penh was painless; about a half hour from plane to door. The $20 for visa on arrival took less than 5 minutes and our bags were already on the carousel by the time we got there. Outside, the driver set up by Ponheary was waiting. He drove with one hand on the horn and one foot on the gas at 70 mph the whole way. We got there in 4.5 hrs including a stop in Kompong Thom at the Arunras hotel for a bland chicken and water spinach. The scene along the way was endless rice fields, cows, water buffalo, goats, and oddly enough, many people playing volleyball in their yards. Turns out volleyball is a popular sport here.

We arrived at the Seven Candles Guesthouse around 4:30 PM and it was so great to see Ponheary and Lori waiting for us. The guesthouse has expanded and remodeled since we were here in 2007 and greatly improved since David and I were here in 2002. This year they were listed in the Lonely Planet guide as a favorite pick for the neighborhood. The rooms are spacious and spotless, have A/C, small TVs with international cable, mini fridge, nice quality linens and beautiful hand woven silk kramas (Cambodian scarves) hanging on the wall. Rooms in the new wing have enclosed showers stalls in the bathrooms and the others have just an open shower in the bathroom. There’s wifi for a small fee.
  
There are thoughtful touches like Lori’s favorite restaurant list, two free bottles of water per day, laundry service for $2 per kilo (just leave laundry in basket outside door before 7am and you‘ll have it back same day), comfortable common areas with computers (use your access card), small
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